72 / 374
T^
DRINKS.
possibly
could
have
been
the
production
of
thsrt
district.
The
nobility
of
the
Medoc
wines
is
small.
There
are
only
four
premiers
crus,
but
they
are
magnificent.
They
are
Chateau
Lafitte,
Chateau
Latour,
Chiteau
Margaux,
and
Chateau
Haut-Brion;
and
all
these,
especially
the
Latour,
have
a
flavour
and
seductive
bouquet
all
their
own,
which
is
believed
to
arise
from
an
extremely
volatile
oil
contained
in
the
grape
skins,
which,
like'
all
ethers,
requires
time
to
evolve
and
mature.
But
the
soil,
undoubtedly,
has
most
to
do
with
it,
amd
this
must
be
in
a
very
large
degree
com-
posed
of
fragments
of
rock,
small
and
large,
while
the
smooth
round
pebbles
reflect
the rays of
the
sun
and
throw
them
upwards,
so
as
almost
to
surround
the
grapes
with
light
and
heat.
Again,
these
stones
absorbing
the
sun's
rays
during
the
day,
give
out
warmth
after
sunset,
whilst
they
keep
the
roots
of
the
vines
cool,
and
prevent
to
a
great
degree
the
evapora-
tion
of
the
natural
and
necessary
moisture
of
the
earth.
But
these
premiers
crus
are
not
always
good
;
for
instance,
in
1869,
Messrs.
Fulcher
&
Baines,
winie
brokers,
sold
by
auction
a
very
large
parcel
of
Chateau
Margaux
for
about
30^.
per
dozen.
There
was
no
doubt
but
that
it
was
genuine
wine,
bottled
at
the
Chateau,
for
the
cases
and
corks
were
all
properly
branded
;
but
of
such
low
quality
was
it,
or
it
deteriorated
so
rapidly,
that
when
sold
again
in
18
7
1
the
same
wine
only
averaged
18^.
per
dozen.