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DRINKS.

67

facturer,

for

the

extremest

care

is

required

to

regulate

the

quantity

of

carbonic

acid

gas,

so

that

there

shall

be

neither

too

little

nor

too

much.

For

if

there

be

too

little,

the

wine

will

be

flat

;

and

if

there

be

too

much,

the

bottles

will

burst

by

thousands.

An

instru-

ment,

called

a

glucometer,

or

saccharometer,

is

used

to

measure

the

amount

of

saccharine

matter

in

the

wine

at

this

point

;

and

if

the

necessary

standard

be

not

reached,

the

deficiency

is

supplied

by

the

purest

sugar

candy.

To

the

ordinary

palate,

at

this

stage

it

differs

in

no

respect

from

still

white

wine,

of

somewhat

tart

flavour,

and

is

now

drawn

off

into

other

casks

to

undergo

the

next

treatment

in

the

process

;

viz.,

the

fining,

to

make

it

bright,

and

remove

what

is

known

to

connoisseurs

of

wine

as

'*

ropiness."

The

wine

is

now

ready

for

bottling,

and

the

danger

to

be

avoided

is

the

bursting

of

the

bottles,

for

the

pressure

of

the

gas

is

tremendous

;

hence

it

is

that

the

champagne

bottle

is

the

most

solid

and

massive

in

use.

The

bottling

takes

place,

as

a

rule,

about

eight

months

after

the

grapes

have

been

first

pressed,

and

the

pre-

cautions

against

breakage

are

of

the

most

minute

description.

The

instant

any

symptoms

of

bursting

display

themselves,

the

wine

has

to

be

removed

to

a

cooler

temperature

;

but

even

with

every

precaution,

the

loss

sustained

by

the

bursting

of

bottles

is

often

very

serious

indeed,

sometimes

to

an

almost

ruinous

extent.

The

risk

of

breakage

is

generally

almost

past

by

the

end

of

October,

and

the

bottles

are

then

kept

in

the

cellars

for

a

period

ranging

from

eighteen

months

to

three

years,

according

to

the

custom

of

the

establishment.