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80

OUR

ANCESTORS.

cabbages

were

grown,

with

turnips,

artichokes,

pump-

kins

and

cucumbers,

peas

and

beans,

mushrooms

and

truffles,

and

many

plants

and

herbs

used

for

flavoring.

Nor

did

the

Roman

table

lack

rare

and

choice

wines,

kept

in

jars

or

bottles

of

baked

clay.

They

were

prized

in

proportion

to

their

age;

and

each

jar

bore

a

label,

showing

in

whose

consulship

the

wine

had

been

made.

Campania

furnished

the

best

Italian

wines,

of

which

the

Caecuban

held

the

first

rank, the

Falernian

the

next,

while

the

third

place

was

claimed

by

several

vintages;

but

whoever

was

forced

to

drink

the

Vatican

was

an

object

of

general

commiseration.

Greek

wines,

too,

had

their

place

in

the

Roman

cellars.

As,

with

the

increasing

luxury

the

customs

at

the

table

were

more

and

more

fashioned

after

those

of

the

Greeks,

though

incompar-

ably

more

luxurious,

so,

like

the

Greek,

the

Roman

rarely

drank

wine

undiluted.

He

mingled

it

with

water,

and

cooled

it

with

snow;

while

for

the

winter

he

had

a

warm

drink

the

calda,

made

of

wine,

water,

honey,

and

spice,

for

preparing

which

there

was

a

special

ves-

sel,

the

caldarium, with

a

small

furnace

of

charcoal

in

the

interior,

on

the

principle

of

the

Russian

samovar.

Still

another

beverage,

called

mulsurn,

which

was

drunk

at

breakfast,

was

prepared

of

must,

honey,

and

spices.

The

Roman

table

was

thus

liberally

provided,

and

though

many

dishes

seem

to

us

of

questionable

taste,

still,

the

achievements

of

Romans

in

the

culinary

line

do

them

high

credit.

Even

in

Caesar's

time,

at

a

pon-