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279

prawns and simmer for another five minutes; then add the mussels or clams,

cover and cook for a further five minutes or so, until the fish is ready and the

mussels or clams have opened.Take care not to break up the fish by stirring

too often. Add salt and pepper to taste, and garnish with fresh parsley and

lemon wedges before serving.

Grilled fish with romesco sauce

There are many different varieties of

romesco

sauce, which originates from

the Tarragona province, and you can experiment with the quantities of the

ingredients below until you find the taste that suits you. Made with small

chilli peppers, fresh or dried, it can be a very hot sauce, though you can

substitute cayenne pepper or even paprika for these, if you want to control

the heat.

Ingredients

4 fish steaks, marinaded in olive oil, chopped garlic and lemon juice

2 lemons, quartered

2 tbsp olive oil

1 small onion, finely chopped

3 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

10–15 almonds (toasted under the grill)

2 tbsp dry white wine

Chilli peppers/cayenne pepper/ paprika to taste

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

Salt

Method

Fry the onion and the garlic in the olive oil until soft.Add the tomatoes, white

wine and chilli peppers, and cook over a low heat for twenty minutes. Crush

or grind the almonds and add to the mixture, adding enough extra olive oil

to achieve the consistency of a purée. Add the vinegar and a pinch of salt.

Either put the whole lot through a blender or food processor, or pass through

a sieve – you’re aiming for a smooth, rather thick sauce. Leave to cool at room

temperature. Take the fish out of the marinade, grill, and serve with lemon

wedges. Serve the sauce separately, to be dipped in or spooned over.

Know your sauce

The sauce is the source of good food, as a Catalan might say. Everything starts with

a

sofregit

, basically sliced onion, chopped tomato and garlic that has been sautéed

down to a soft, almost jam-like consistency. This underpins the construction of

countless classic Catalan dishes, which might then be thickened before serving with

the addition of a

picada

– a smooth paste (made in a mortar and pestle) of garlic,

almonds, hazelnuts, fried bread, saffron, olive oil and parsley. The southern Catalan

romesco

sauce, made with chilli peppers, is a spicier version of

picada

, used as a

dip (for grilled spring onions or fish) rather than as an ingredient.

All i oli

(garlic and

oil) is a fiery Catalan mayonnaise, made without eggs, served with grilled meat (tradi-

tionally rabbit), fish and shellfish or stirred into

fideuà

. And there’s also

samfaina

, a

ratatouille-like stew of garlic, onion, tomato, aubergine and pepper. Again, this can

be served as an accompaniment (perhaps for roast chicken or salt cod), but it’s also

made into a sauce by cooking a lot longer until sticky and then puréeing.

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Catalan cookery