Page 14 - police world Edition 1 2013

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Article
Dianne Heydon thought that big motorcycling pants was all she had in
common with Bridget Jones, then she was convinced to keep a diary of
her Moroccan motorcycle adventure.
Police World Vol 58 No.1 2013
D ianne joined 33 IPA members for a
motorcycle trip of a lifetime to Morocco
organised by Dave Taylor, Chair of the
Motorcycle Group.
Dave’s plan was to keep route choices and
convoys small. Members could vary the route to
suit their ability or taste.
The riders had to travel overland to Salamanca for
the official start of the tour as a ferry dispute
meant a slight change of plan.
This meant that riders faced a 400 mile average
on the first three days to cross France and Spain.
On completion, Diane’s complaints of feeling a
little saddle sore were silenced when she met
Lenny and Catherine, who had ridden 1900 miles
from Scotland!
Dianne left Spain with mixed emotions as the day
marked retirement from her 30 year police career.
The party split into smaller groups for the two day
ride via Seville to Algeciras Port where it reunited
for their ferry to Morocco.
Dianne’s first experience of Moroccan roads was
a twisty coastal road to Fnideq. She settled into
riding through a red and mountainous landscape,
with blue skies, sunshine and well surfaced roads.
Occasionally she saw herds of ‘kamikaze goats’
which, un-phased by the noisy bikes, wandered
across their path.
This pleasant first impression changed once the
group reached Fnideq. In common with traffic in
many Moroccan towns it was bedlam. Dianne
soon learned that Morocco has few rules of the
road. She endured a cacophony of horns and
hooters, while three wheelers and scooters
careered and zig zagged between their small
convoy. Dianne said, “It was a case of if you
think a vehicle is heading towards you then it
probably is”.
It was a similar culture shock at Moroccan filling
stations. Attendants attempted to direct vehicles
to pumps with fuel while more vehicles jostled for
position to be served by attendants - with
seemingly little progress at times. A need to adjust
to a different way of life and way of doing things
was what was needed as is often the case when
experiencing different cultures for the first time.
Heading towards Fez, the group split again. Some
took quieter roads through the Moroccan
countryside. Dianne’s group opted for the better
surfaced main roads.
Along the way, Dianne learned not to be put off by
the scruffy appearance of roadside cafes. Without
exception they were frequented by the locals and
good food and drinks were on offer. Fez brought a
welcome day off the bikes. Dianne’s group
negotiated the services of two aging Mercedes
taxis and travelled to the old town and market of
Medina.
Although Medina Market is car free, there were
donkeys, barrows, and pedal bikes all displaying
the same road sense as the local drivers - which
certainly added to the experience.
The evening meal in Fez proved very interesting
and emphasised the cultural differences for some
of the IPA members who had chosen a pizza
establishment as their place to eat. It soon
became apparent that the pizza house doubled as
a brothel complete with Arabic karaoke.
Back on the bikes the daily average now settled to
a more civilised 150 miles as the group rode
towards Marrakech.
Leaving Fez, the Group rode south on delightful
twisty roads climbing into the mountains. There
was less traffic and the red landscape was
spectacular. All along the route locals stopped and
waved at the passing bikes.
Dianne had chosen Dave’s ‘red’ route to
Marrakesh, through desert scenery with sand,
cacti and camels as far as the eye could see. The
alternative ‘yellow’ route took riders to the edge of
the Atlas Mountains twisting upwards to the
famous Ouzoud Falls. More adventurous riders
opted for Dave’s challenging ‘white’ route,
heading further into the mountains.
At Marrakesh, Dianne headed for Jemaa el-Fnaa.
This famous square is a UNESCO World Heritage
site. A visit to Marrakech is incomplete without
experiencing the square and its menagerie of
snake charmers, acrobats, magicians, monkey
trainers, herb sellers, story tellers, dentists,
entertainers and pickpockets.
After this break in Marrakech, Dianne’s party
rode deeper into the Atlas Mountains and across
the Tizi-n-Test pass. This mountain route was
twisty with steep climbs and descents. Beyond the
pass the road deteriorated with fallen rocks and
potholes. Fast travelling drivers came around
blind corners on the wrong side of the road forcing
the bikes towards the broken edges of the road.
The driving conditions at times meant an all too
close appreciation of the rugged landscape for
the riders.
At the next stop at Agadir, their most southerly
point, things got even more bizarre. Approaching
town, Dianne was so surprised to see goats in the
trees she almost ran over the tortoises taking an
evening stroll!
It was now time for Dianne’s return north which
also brought a change of scenery. The group
exchanged views of mountains for the Atlantic
coastline, with endless scenes of waves breaking
on beaches.
Approaching the urban sprawl of Casablanca they
travelled on their first Moroccan toll road. At 52
Dirham (£8.90) for two bikes they considered it
money well spent to avoid a complex and difficult
route into the city. Dianne explained that she was
a little disappointed with Casablanca. She had
expected scenes from the Humphrey Bogart
movie - instead she found a modern and
vibrant city.
The last day in Morocco was the first time the
whole group had ridden in convoy. After posing
for team photographs in Fez hats they rode to
the port.
Back in Europe, they rode home through Portugal
and Spain. The ferry strike had now been resolved
and their ferry across the Bay of Biscay left on
time for a smooth crossing.
Dianne summed up her trip by saying, “I had an
exciting adventure, riding 4200 miles across four
countries. After covering all those miles I was very
glad of my big pants! Morocco is not for the faint
hearted - it’s truly an experience - one made all
the better when travelling with such a great group
of IPA friends.”
Neil Hallam
Tanning pits in Fez - fascinating but very smelly
In the Moroccan mountains
Fez fly to mark a successful trip
Miles and Miles of
Magical Memories in Morocco